Okay, so I've had the boiler switch on, I've filled the machine full of cups, there's plenty of water getting into the machine as I can vend cold water no problem, and yet I still have no light for the hot water and no light for sugar until I vend a cup. Once I vend a cup I try to get hot water but it comes out stone cold. Does this mean the boiler is dead?
Thanks again for all the help.
Darenth auto 1066 VIP
- Coin Operated Group
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3423
- Joined: January 13th, 2009, 10:41 am
- Area Covered: Birmingham, West Midlands
- Machines Used: Arcade Machines, Quiz & Big Vendors
- Referred by?: myself
- Location: Birmingham
- Contact:
Re: Darenth auto 1066 VIP
If you have a voltmeter or multimeter you need to just check that you are getting 240v onto the heating element on the tank. If you are getting 240 on the tank element then yes new tank. But make sure the voltage is coming from
The board , to the heater over temperature cut out and to the element. Ensuring you have a live and neutral feed. Are you 100% you have reset theal cut out and it has pushed in?
Worse case scenario tank replacements aren't too expensive anyway
Regards
Matt
The board , to the heater over temperature cut out and to the element. Ensuring you have a live and neutral feed. Are you 100% you have reset theal cut out and it has pushed in?
Worse case scenario tank replacements aren't too expensive anyway
Regards
Matt
-
- Coin Op Group Apprentice
- Posts: 48
- Joined: October 3rd, 2014, 6:58 pm
- Machines Used: Darenth 1066 Auto VIP
- Referred by?: Google
Re: Darenth auto 1066 VIP
Hi MAtt,
Got a multimeter, but not sure how I would check the voltage going to the heating element. Is the temperature cutout the brown plastic cross seen in the photo below? That's the nearest thing I can find to a button that can be press in. It seems pretty firm, I don't think it could be pushed in any further if it is a button.
There seems to be a single strand on copper leaving the back of what I think is the cutout, and entering the tank. Further back there's a similar bit of copper that is coiled, and entering the tank also. Should there be voltage across these?
Thanks again for the help,
Ryan
Got a multimeter, but not sure how I would check the voltage going to the heating element. Is the temperature cutout the brown plastic cross seen in the photo below? That's the nearest thing I can find to a button that can be press in. It seems pretty firm, I don't think it could be pushed in any further if it is a button.
There seems to be a single strand on copper leaving the back of what I think is the cutout, and entering the tank. Further back there's a similar bit of copper that is coiled, and entering the tank also. Should there be voltage across these?
Thanks again for the help,
Ryan
-
- Coin Op Group Apprentice
- Posts: 48
- Joined: October 3rd, 2014, 6:58 pm
- Machines Used: Darenth 1066 Auto VIP
- Referred by?: Google
Re: Darenth auto 1066 VIP
Sorry that my knowledge is so amateur. If it wasn't already obvious this is the first machine I've taken apart.
- Coin Operated Group
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3423
- Joined: January 13th, 2009, 10:41 am
- Area Covered: Birmingham, West Midlands
- Machines Used: Arcade Machines, Quiz & Big Vendors
- Referred by?: myself
- Location: Birmingham
- Contact:
Re: Darenth auto 1066 VIP
No the exposed copper is for the thermostat. The live cables will be have brown insulation on them and have spade connectors pushed onto the element on the tank